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90K Followers

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Stories

What We Keep

Portrait of Emma Fitzgerald

Written by Emma Fitzgerald

Folded linen garments stacked in an open drawer

The average garment is worn seven times. That figure should be the industry’s central scandal, and it is barely discussed.

Not only a material problem

Clothes that last are not merely a material problem. They are a design problem and, more uncomfortably, an emotional one. A strong fibre in an ugly shape is landfill with a longer delay.

Mending by hand — the cheapest way to keep a thing

What keeping actually requires

You keep what you are attached to. So the real question is not how to make cloth stronger, but how to make it worth the attachment. In practice that means:

  1. A shape that will still be defensible in ten years, which rules out most of a given season.

  2. A cloth that improves with use rather than degrading, so the object rewards the habit.

  3. Seams that can be opened and repaired by someone who is not a specialist.

Folded and kept, rather than replaced

The uncomfortable part

None of this is solved by better fibre. It is solved by making fewer things worth keeping — a constraint we have written into the core collection.

The real question is not how to make cloth stronger, but how to make it worth the attachment.

The real question is not how to make cloth stronger, but how to make it worth the attachment.

The real question is not how to make cloth stronger, but how to make it worth the attachment.

Cormac Byrne

Portrait of Emma Fitzgerald

Written by

Emma Fitzgerald

Fashion Editor

Emma writes the Journal's Stories strand, on slow fashion and the long life of a garment. She has spent fifteen years covering natural fibres and believes a wardrobe should be argued with rather than assembled.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many times is the average garment worn?

Seven. That figure should be the industry's central scandal and is barely discussed.

Is durability only a material problem?

No. It is a design problem and, more uncomfortably, an emotional one. You keep what you are attached to.

What makes cloth worth keeping?

Repairability, a shape that still works in ten years, and a surface that improves rather than degrades with use.

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