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The Core Collection, Revisited

Portrait of Olivia Bennett

Written by Olivia Bennett

Flat lay of eight core linen pieces in natural tones

Eight pieces have carried the house since the beginning. This year we took all eight apart.

Invisible changes

Some changes are invisible: a shifted shoulder seam, a heavier thread, a hem that no longer twists after the fourth wash. None of them will be noticed. All of them were the point.

Core pieces, folded flat

The rule we worked to

Nothing was redesigned for its own sake. If we could not name the fault, we left it alone. The faults we could name:

  1. The shoulder sat a half-centimetre wide, which read as slouch rather than ease.

  2. The thread was lighter than the cloth, so seams failed before the linen did.

  3. The hem twisted, because it was cut with the grain rather than against the wash.

A collar and a maker's label

What stayed

All eight. Nothing was dropped and nothing was added. You can see them in the everyday collection.

Nothing was redesigned for its own sake. If we could not name the fault, we left it alone.

Nothing was redesigned for its own sake. If we could not name the fault, we left it alone.

Nothing was redesigned for its own sake. If we could not name the fault, we left it alone.

Sinéad Moore

Portrait of Olivia Bennett

Written by

Olivia Bennett

Collection Designer

Olivia works on the house's seasonal collections and writes the notes that accompany them. She cuts in linen almost exclusively and is responsible for most of the arguments about hems.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the core collection?

Eight pieces that have carried the house since the beginning. This year we took all eight apart.

What changed?

Mostly invisible things: a shifted shoulder seam, a heavier thread, a hem that no longer twists after the fourth wash.

Were any pieces removed?

No. The brief was to correct faults we could name, not to redesign for novelty.

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