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Our World

Threads of Ambition

Portrait of Sophie Gallagher

Written by Sophie Gallagher

Woman in a navy quilted jacket and dark sunglasses against a deep teal wall

The Guardian came to the workroom this spring to ask why a house would build an entire wardrobe on Irish linen.

The honest answer

Because the cloth is here. The flax, the looms, the finishing rooms — all within a few hours of the cutting table, and all of it quietly extraordinary.

The workroom bench, mid-collection

Designing beside the cloth

You cannot design in a fibre you have never stood beside while it was made. Linen decides things — how a sleeve falls, where a seam will pull, how long a hem stays flat. The house works to those decisions rather than against them.

  • The cloth sets the silhouette; the pattern follows it.

  • A finish you can feel is worth more than a finish you can only describe.

  • If a piece cannot be mended, it should not be cut.

Fitting a toile on the stand

The rest of it

The piece was generous and largely accurate. It also spent more time on the workroom than on the cloth itself, which we would fix if we could. The finishing is where the real story sits — see Inside the Beetling Mill.

You cannot design in a fibre you have never stood beside while it was made.

You cannot design in a fibre you have never stood beside while it was made.

You cannot design in a fibre you have never stood beside while it was made.

The Studio

Portrait of Sophie Gallagher

Written by

Sophie Gallagher

Fashion Historian

Sophie writes on Irish textile heritage and the mills that still run. She reads a balance sheet as closely as she reads a swatch, and considers both documents of intent.

Frequently Asked Questions

What did The Guardian ask?

Why a house would build an entire wardrobe on Irish linen when almost nobody else does.

Why linen?

Because it is grown, spun, woven and finished within a few hours of the cutting table — and because it improves with use rather than degrading.

Is the house reviving Irish linen?

Not in any heroic sense. The looms and the finishing rooms were already here. The house simply cuts in what they make.

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