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Craftsmanship

Dyeing with Nettle and Woad

Portrait of Isabella Moore

Written by Isabella Moore

Skeins of linen drying above a woad dye vat

Woad gives a blue that arrives green and turns as it meets the air. Watching it is the closest dyeing comes to theatre.

The turn

The skein comes out of the vat the colour of a pond and changes in front of you, edge inward, as the oxygen reaches it. It takes about ninety seconds and nobody who sees it stays quiet.

Skeins turning in the woad vat

Nettle, which nobody notices

Nettle gives a soft grey-green that most people assume is undyed, which is either a failure or the entire achievement, depending on the day you ask.

You are not applying a colour. You are persuading the fibre to hold one.

On fastness

Neither is colourfast in the way a synthetic is. They fade toward something, rather than away from it — which is a real difference, not a consolation.

The dye house, blue on every surface

Where it ends up

The quantities are small and the results are never exactly repeatable, which is why these pieces appear rarely and in the signature collection.

They fade toward something, rather than away from it.

They fade toward something, rather than away from it.

They fade toward something, rather than away from it.

Róisín Fahey

Portrait of Isabella Moore

Written by

Isabella Moore

Textile Researcher

Isabella researches fibre, finish and construction for the house. She trained as a weaver before she trained as a writer, which she maintains was the right order.

Frequently Asked Questions

What colour does woad give?

A blue that arrives green and turns as it meets the air. Watching it is the closest dyeing comes to theatre.

What about nettle?

A soft grey-green that most people assume is undyed — either a failure or the entire achievement, depending on your view.

Are natural dyes colourfast?

Not in the way synthetics are. They fade toward something rather than away from it.

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